Cheat sheet
3D printer filament cheat sheet
Not sure which filament to buy? Here's what each common type is good for, what to avoid it for, how hard it is to print, and the settings to start with. If you're new, start with PLA. It does most things well.
Quick pick
| You're printing… | Use |
|---|---|
| My first print, figures, toys, gifts | PLA |
| Something that gets dropped or clipped on | PLA+ / tough PLA |
| Outdoors, in water, or in a hot car | PETG (or ASA in full sun) |
| Bendy or rubbery | TPU |
| Near heat, like an engine bay | ABS or ASA (with an enclosure) |
| Gears and hinges that wear | Nylon |
| A shiny vase or ornament | Silk PLA |
| Hide the layer lines on a model | Matte PLA |
Filament by filament
PLA
The everyday filament. Start here.
Good for
- Figures, toys and display models
- Cake toppers, signs, gifts
- Prototypes and test prints
- Multi-colour prints
Avoid for
- Anything left in a hot car or the sun
- Parts that bend or take a load
- Outdoor use
- Nozzle
- 190–220 °C
- Bed
- 50–60 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: Softens around 55–60 °C, so a dashboard on a summer day can warp it.
Silk and matte PLA
PLA with a look: shiny or chalky-smooth.
Good for
- Vases, ornaments and decor (silk)
- Figures and models that hide layer lines (matte)
Avoid for
- Strong or functional parts: both are a bit weaker than plain PLA
- Nozzle
- 200–230 °C
- Bed
- 50–60 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: Silk looks best printed a little slower and hotter.
PLA+ / tough PLA
PLA that's less brittle.
Good for
- Brackets, clips and holders
- Toys that get dropped
- Everyday parts around the house
Avoid for
- Heat, like plain PLA
- Nozzle
- 205–230 °C
- Bed
- 55–65 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: A good default if you want PLA's ease with a bit more strength.
PETG
Tougher than PLA, handles heat and water.
Good for
- Functional parts and mounts
- Outdoor items and planters
- Model boats and things that get wet
- Car interior parts
Avoid for
- Fine detail figures (it strings more)
- Very fast printing
- Nozzle
- 230–250 °C
- Bed
- 70–85 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: Sticks very hard to smooth PEI: use a textured plate or a glue stick so it doesn't pull chunks off.
TPU (flexible)
Rubbery and bendy.
Good for
- Phone cases and bumpers
- Gaskets, seals and feet
- Watch bands, grips and squishy toys
Avoid for
- Stiff parts
- Rushing: it needs slow speeds
- Nozzle
- 210–235 °C
- Bed
- 40–60 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: Print slowly and turn retraction down. Harder TPU (95A) is much easier than very soft grades.
ABS
Heat-resistant and strong, but fussy.
Good for
- Car parts and things near heat
- Parts you'll sand, glue or smooth with acetone
Avoid for
- Printers without an enclosure
- Small rooms without airflow
- Nozzle
- 240–260 °C
- Bed
- 90–110 °C
- Enclosure
- Yes
Tip: Warps and cracks in a draft, and gives off fumes: enclose the printer and vent the room.
ASA
ABS that stands up to the sun.
Good for
- Outdoor parts that stay outside
- Car exterior parts, garden and boat fittings
Avoid for
- Printers without an enclosure
- Nozzle
- 240–260 °C
- Bed
- 90–110 °C
- Enclosure
- Yes
Tip: Same handling as ABS, but it doesn't fade or go brittle in sunlight.
Nylon (PA)
Very tough and slippery.
Good for
- Gears, hinges and wear parts
- Tools and parts that take a beating
Avoid for
- Beginners
- Damp storage: it soaks up moisture fast
- Nozzle
- 250–280 °C
- Bed
- 70–90 °C
- Enclosure
- Yes
Tip: Always dry it before printing and keep it in a sealed box with desiccant.
Polycarbonate (PC)
The toughest and most heat-resistant common filament.
Good for
- High-heat and high-strength parts
- Clear, impact-resistant pieces
Avoid for
- Beginners
- Printers that can't reach high temperatures
- Nozzle
- 260–300 °C
- Bed
- 100–120 °C
- Enclosure
- Yes
Tip: Needs a hot printer and an enclosure, and dry filament.
Carbon fibre blends (PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PA-CF)
Stiffer, matte versions of the base plastic.
Good for
- Stiff, light parts like drone frames and brackets
- A clean matte finish
Avoid for
- Brass nozzles: the fibres wear them out fast
- Nozzle
- Same as the base plastic
- Bed
- Same as the base plastic
- Enclosure
- Same as the base plastic
Tip: Use a hardened steel nozzle.
PVA (support)
Support that dissolves in water.
Good for
- Supports for complex prints on multi-colour printers
- Clean undersides with no support marks
Avoid for
- The model itself
- Humid rooms: it goes soft and stringy when damp
- Nozzle
- 190–220 °C
- Bed
- 50–60 °C
- Enclosure
- No
Tip: Pair it with PLA. Soak the finished print in warm water to wash the supports away.
Temperatures are typical starting points. Every brand is a little different, so start with the range printed on your spool and your slicer's profile for that filament.
Three rules that fix most filament problems
- Keep it dry. Store spools sealed with desiccant. Popping, stringing and weak prints usually mean damp filament.
- Use the right profile. Pick the matching filament in your slicer (brand, or "Generic PETG" etc.) before you change anything else.
- Keep the plate clean. Wash it with dish soap and water now and then. Fingerprints are the top reason prints won't stick.
Filament questions
- What's the best filament for beginners?
- PLA. It prints at low temperatures, doesn't need an enclosure, barely warps and comes in every colour. Start with it and only switch when a part needs something PLA can't do, like handling heat or bending.
- What's the difference between PLA and PETG?
- PLA is easier to print and better for detailed models. PETG is tougher, bends a little before it breaks, and handles heat, sun and water better, so it's the pick for functional and outdoor parts. PETG strings more and needs a hotter nozzle and bed.
- Do I need an enclosure?
- Not for PLA, PETG or TPU. ABS, ASA, nylon and polycarbonate need one to stop warping and cracking, and ABS and ASA give off fumes, so use them in a ventilated room.
- Is 3D printed plastic food safe?
- Treat it as not food safe. Even when the filament is, the tiny gaps between layers can trap bacteria. For cookie cutters and cake toppers, keep contact short and wash them well, or use a food-safe coating.
- Why do I need to dry filament?
- Most filaments soak up moisture from the air. Wet filament pops and hisses, strings and prints weak, rough parts. Nylon, TPU, PVA and PETG are the worst for it. Dry it in a filament dryer and store it sealed with desiccant.
Ready to print something?
Every model on STLShelf lists its size and the creator's own print settings, including the filament they used. New to 3D printing? Our free beginner guide takes you from choosing a printer to your first print.